The restaurant succeeds in conjuring the atmosphere and comfort of one’s own living room - without sacrificing the sophistication of the dining experience or the authenticity of the concept. And the food encapsulates exactly that.
Roop Partap Choudhary, the founder and brains behind Colonel Saab, has entered the UK food scene by storm. This is the award-winning entrepreneur and hotelier's first UK venture outside India, and with the help of spectacularly talented Head Chef Sohan Bhandari and master innovator Karen Anand, has set a dangerously high precedent in standard for all other Indian restaurants across the city and country.
Just entering Colonel Saab is enough to knock you off your feet. The word ‘authentic’ is one that’s thrown around fairly loosely, but not in this case. Around 30 striking imported glass chandeliers form a grand canopy to the large space, flowing with Indian incense and history draped on every surface. From antique clocks and priceless artwork to handwritten letters and family photographs, the entire visit is a true immersion into the life of the eponymous inspiration.
The food is designed to be a conduit through which patrons can follow the Colonel’s journey throughout the Indian subcontinent. He and his wife were well educated with a keen eye for the finer arts, amassing a vast collection, now part housed in the Town Hall. The menu reflects their culinary experience from traditional Rajasthani lunches to banquets hosted by Maharajas – and it’s exquisite.
The Nizami Murg takes centre stage when it comes to ‘wow’ factors on the menu. The expertly seasoned chicken is cooked in a mouth-watering pastry wrap, and is served to the table whole. It’s juicy, tender, and bursting with flavour – and well worth the 30-minute preparation time.
The Kataifi Prawns come as a small or large plate – for us, they were the perfect starter. Gently marinated and wrapped in the stringy dough, they are served with a mango and chilli sauce, and topped with coriander and pomegranate.
The Fish Moilee is another menu stand-out. The fresh white fish is perfectly stewed in the rich, creamy coconut sauce for a luxurious and hearty dish. It’s a lunch-only menu item, but it deserves a call-out as it is truly incredible.
Don’t forget to order Baby Kulchas as a side – although we warn that no breads will ever taste quite as good as these truffle & parmesan ones from Colonel Saab!
We could go on here – especially around the desserts. The Rasmalai Milk Cake with cardamom cream is a must, but the Figs Poached in Assam Tea Cognac win the Gold Flamingo crown in luxury, uniqueness, and taste.
The restaurant also boasts an upstairs area with soft seating and even more history. It also offers two private dining spaces that can be combined – but even if you aren’t using this space, it’s definitely worth asking for a look around. The knowledgeable staff are only too keen to share the stories behind each meticulously sourced piece.
We will note that this probably won’t be your average Friday night pocket change. But this is one of the cases where you really do get what you paid for, and the feast is worth every single penny you spend there.
Join Colonel Saab for a mouth-watering adventure around India from the comfort of the London home. Be prepared for history, art, and an immersive experience – and a menu you’ll be thinking about for weeks after.
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